Al-Haqiqa Al-Dawlia is a bilingual Arabic-English weekly newspaper published here in Jordan, and possibly in other Middle Eastern countries. Unlike the name suggests, “Fact International” provides few facts to its readers. It reads more like a U.S. tabloid newspaper than a professional piece of somewhat objective journalism. Not only is the content of the newspaper on a whole construed but it projects itself as being “alternative analytical media.” What that is suppose to mean is that it is presenting the perspective of the 'other,' when in reality it is only presenting the perspective of the owner. Today our group had a meeting with the owner and the editor-in-chief for the Arabic portion where the owner described the operation and content of the newspaper as superior to other Arab media such as Al-Jazeera, Al-Arabiya, or Al-Dustoor due to the nature of Al-Haqiqa's funding. He informed us that all of these other Arab media were tied to a financial backing, the government, or someone else and these media sources were not completely free to present information that goes against the beliefs of their supporters. What he failed to realize is that by making this argument he only hurt his own case because he indirectly stated that Al-Haqiqa is not backed by a large group of individuals or financiers but by a select few. That puts the paper in a less favorable light because it shows only the ideas of a select few individuals presented as 'fact'.
The meeting was fascinating. It started out as an explanation for the paper's existence, the goals and aims of the paper, and quickly digressed into rantings of his personal political views that went to the extreme and logically did not fit in with his previous claims. For example, at one point he talked about the importance of freedom of speech and the need to have it, but then talks about how freedom of speech can impose itself on others such as the Danish cartoons and that type of speech should be stopped because it is insulting and inflammatory. I found that interesting because many of his articles are insulting and inflammatory but he doesn't recognize it. He even went so far as to quote chapters from an international agreement, chapters 18, 19, and 20 from what he called the International Agreement on Basic Freedoms and Human Rights. I don't even know if that actually exists but if it does his quoting of it and claim that we must adhere to it also hurt his case. Here he claims that someone cannot publish something that is inflammatory or leads to war or strife or anything like it, but then he calls for the “extermination of the state of Israel,” the “uprooting of its people, nicely,” their “not having a place in the Middle East because they are not Arab and it is obvious from looking at them.” So, what I get from this is he wants the western world to restrict its speech because of how he reads an international agreement, but then he ignores another international body, the United Nations, which recognizes the existence of the state of Israel. The logic doesn't hold up.
By the end of the meeting a number of students had gotten fed up with his rantings, where he called George Bush, “a blood thirsty, blood sucker,” and talked about the U.S. military and U.S. values as only being those of rape, pillage, and murder. I'll admit I was frustrated and angry at his rantings, but I didn't see standing up and walking out as a solution that would get us anywhere. I though surely additional dialog would help to present additional viewpoints, point out where we were coming from in comparison to him, etc. Unfortunately, this proved to be unrealistic. Some people's opinions are so set that you can't get them to change, despite their claim to objectivity and need for dialog. I said a few things trying to explain the perspective we were coming from and others did as well. In fact, some presented some very clear explanation of how he was hurting his own cause by publishing such blatantly false stories and making such inflammatory comments as he did to our group. The problem is he just looks at it and said, “I'm sorry if I offended anyone, but those are my views and I have a right to my views and to express them.” Which, he is correct, he does, but it again only hurts him when he then says others don't have a right to express their views on subjects that offend him. He said a lot of things, some made sense, but once he started ranting on all of the things that he was frustrated with and took exceptions, like Abu Ghraib, and presented them as the mainstream ideas of America that is when he lost any credibility and when he lost the ears of a group of American students who otherwise would have been more understanding because of the nature of our program and our studies. He ostracized a key group of individuals because he failed to adhere to his own statements about the need for frank dialog and understanding between east and west. In the end, it turned out to be a comedy show for some, an insult to others, and a confusing look into how a select group of Middle Easterners think. I'm just glad he is not the majority voice being published and the majority voice being accepted, and I hope that continues to be the case. If those with the extremist views ever have their ideas pitched as the mainstream and implemented the world is going to get far more violent and experience far more suffering than we witness today. I hope and pray that day never comes. We need more moderates, we need more people who are willing to listen, who are willing to try to understand, and who are willing to make compromises on what is acceptable. Where are the moderate voices? Why aren't they the focus of discussion instead of the extremists? Without them, we are in a very bad place.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Jordanian Malls
Malls in Jordan are one of the most fascinating places. I would never have thought I would say this, but I really enjoying hanging out at the malls in Amman. I have the opportunity of seeing the entire spectrum of Middle Eastern women and men from the westernized Christians who look like any American from any city or town in America or Europe to the stylish Muslims who wear stylish but modest clothing and a hijab to the fully covered traditional galabiya Muslims. The men typically have a more western style but there are the gulf people who come in for the summer dressed in their white robes and headdresses. It is a fabulous opportunity to just sit and watch people, the way they interact, how they act, and how they dress. If I ever take friends to Jordan I want to take them to the mall on a Thursday night, that is the ideal time because it marks the beginning of the weekend and everybody comes to the mall to hang out. What the mall is to high-school students in America it is to everybody here in Amman. I would never have guessed. As a result of this the malls here are huge. The two largest malls, Mecca Mall and City Mall are within walking distance of each other. Sitting in a Jordanian Mall takes “people watching” up to a whole new level of observing inter-personal interactions and relationships on every level.
Another interesting experience I had tonight happened after we all left the mall. Everybody else had just gotten into cabs and I was waiting for one when I realized I didn't have any Jordanian money on me at all. Naturally, I had to go back into the mall to find an ATM and after withdrawing money had to go buy something to break my smallest bill, a twenty, into something cap drivers would handle. I went to the Donuts Factory and after ordering sat down to eat my donut before leaving for the evening. While I was consuming my donut a young lady walked in dressed head to toe in the traditional shirsha and naqaab, which is the long gown and the hijab with a veil over the face. I didn't think much of it because I see hundreds of women every day who are dressed similar. What caught me off guard was her conversation with the donut man behind the counter. At first I wasn't sure I heard correctly because it was pretty loud but it sounded as if she was talking to him in English. Since I was at the mall it isn't too uncommon for the workers and the customers to speak English, it is a status symbol being able to spend money there on westernized items and do so in English. However, as I listened closer I realized that not only was she speaking English to him, she was speaking English with a very western accent. It was not expected, in some ways I feel like the Arabs who are surprised when I address them in Arabic. I've thought about why this young girl who is dressed the way she is would be speaking Western English instead of Arabic and I can't come to any certain conclusions. It is possible that she was raised in the West and is just here temporarily but that doesn't explain why she isn't speaking Arabic, unless she doesn't actually speak Arabic, then that raises a whole new series of questions about who she is here with, why she is here, and why is she not with someone who speaks the language, and why is she dressed this way? If only there was a girl there with me who could have approached her to ask those types of questions. I would have been very interested in knowing the answers because everything I come up with is purely speculation and I don't have nearly the background nor the expertise to really come to any conclusive answers.
Another interesting experience I had tonight happened after we all left the mall. Everybody else had just gotten into cabs and I was waiting for one when I realized I didn't have any Jordanian money on me at all. Naturally, I had to go back into the mall to find an ATM and after withdrawing money had to go buy something to break my smallest bill, a twenty, into something cap drivers would handle. I went to the Donuts Factory and after ordering sat down to eat my donut before leaving for the evening. While I was consuming my donut a young lady walked in dressed head to toe in the traditional shirsha and naqaab, which is the long gown and the hijab with a veil over the face. I didn't think much of it because I see hundreds of women every day who are dressed similar. What caught me off guard was her conversation with the donut man behind the counter. At first I wasn't sure I heard correctly because it was pretty loud but it sounded as if she was talking to him in English. Since I was at the mall it isn't too uncommon for the workers and the customers to speak English, it is a status symbol being able to spend money there on westernized items and do so in English. However, as I listened closer I realized that not only was she speaking English to him, she was speaking English with a very western accent. It was not expected, in some ways I feel like the Arabs who are surprised when I address them in Arabic. I've thought about why this young girl who is dressed the way she is would be speaking Western English instead of Arabic and I can't come to any certain conclusions. It is possible that she was raised in the West and is just here temporarily but that doesn't explain why she isn't speaking Arabic, unless she doesn't actually speak Arabic, then that raises a whole new series of questions about who she is here with, why she is here, and why is she not with someone who speaks the language, and why is she dressed this way? If only there was a girl there with me who could have approached her to ask those types of questions. I would have been very interested in knowing the answers because everything I come up with is purely speculation and I don't have nearly the background nor the expertise to really come to any conclusive answers.
Petra - A World Wonder
This last weekend I spent two days in Petra, one of the 7 wonders of the world (the list of New 7 Wonders). The selection of Petra as one of the wonders is well deserved. The place is beautiful. Petra consists of a series of desert canyons, valleys, and mountains that once contained the ancient Nabatean civilization. As far as canyons, valleys, and desert mountains go, Petra isn't very different from many parts of Southern Utah or Northern Arizona, that is until you take in all of the buildings, temples, houses, tombs, and the ancient water collecting and distribution systems and realize everything is carved into and out of rock. The tombs and houses are not just practical in their designs but they are intricately carved, especially the Treasury and the Monastery. These people took pride in their work and wanted to make their city beautiful and because everything is made from rock all of the structures remain. I was amazed by the size of many of the rooms, the heights of the external facade, and the realization that all of this was done without power-tools, without cranes, without modern advances and yet these people not only survived in the desert, but they thrived in the desert in physical sustenance, trade, and culture. I am still blown away by the beauty of the place. I climbed up many rocks and tombs to examine the simplicity and the complexity of the various buildings that remain. I still sit in amazement as I think of what I saw and observed here. It is incredible.
During the first day I managed to spend time in all 4 corners of Petra, as shown in the guidebooks, and spent most of that time outside of the major tourist attractions. I like seeing the main attractions but I love getting out and seeing what else exists outside of the center. We found beautiful caves and houses, Bedouin who still utilize the Nabatean buildings in their lives, vast landscapes, steep ravines, goat herds, and the preciousness of water and how plants thrive in the desert with even the slightest source. Initially we wanted to get up to the Monastery before the crowds, since we arrived at 6:30 am. Unfortunately, we took a wrong turn and ended up hiking up a trail that is typically not visited by tourists. We stayed along the trail and found ourselves above a wadi with a small stream running through it that enables a small jungle to grow about 30 feet on either side of it. We assumed we were in a different wadi than we were and so as a result we decided to climb a gulch to the saddle of the surrounding mountain in hopes of coming up behind the Monastery. After a somewhat treacherous climb we reached the peak and realized that we weren't where we thought we would be, but also saw before us more Nabatean houses, and a Bedouin camp. We made our way down to the camp and as soon as our presence was known we were flocked by 4 Bedouin children all shouting in their accented English, “Where you go? Where you go?” The children and their parents were very surprised to find 6 American tourists come out of that part of the mountain rather than from the main trail and were even more surprised when we spoke to them in Arabic. The man was very good at English and used his short time with us to practice and helped us discover where we were and which directions would take us back towards the Monastery. By this point we realized there was no way we were going to beat all of the tourists so we started to explore the surrounding hills and found some amazing sandstone coloring near the Nabatean buildings. What amazed me most was the fact that I could, from the top of one of the buildings on a small hill, look in every direction and see Nabatean buildings carved out of the rocks as far as I could see in all directions. Every cliff wall and every valley had signs of carvings, of houses, and of the ancient (and sometimes modern) signs of its inhabitants.
In the end I could spend another two or three days in Petra exploring. There is so much to see and although much of it is similar, it is fascinating to explore the ruins, to walk through slot canyons, to climb ancient stair cases carved directly out of the rock, to search through the thousands of shards of pottery, and to hope to come across ancient Roman coins. The experience is not one to be missed if traveling through Jordan and I left wishing I had more time so that I didn't have to try to do it all in two days. Our first day I was in the park walking for 13 hours, with a couple hours of break for lunch. By the end of the evening I was exhausted, thirsty, sunburned, but satisfied by my experiences. Day two resulted in less climbing and more enjoyment of the scenery and although i didn't do everything I wanted it left me with something to look forward to the next time I'm passing through Petra.
During the first day I managed to spend time in all 4 corners of Petra, as shown in the guidebooks, and spent most of that time outside of the major tourist attractions. I like seeing the main attractions but I love getting out and seeing what else exists outside of the center. We found beautiful caves and houses, Bedouin who still utilize the Nabatean buildings in their lives, vast landscapes, steep ravines, goat herds, and the preciousness of water and how plants thrive in the desert with even the slightest source. Initially we wanted to get up to the Monastery before the crowds, since we arrived at 6:30 am. Unfortunately, we took a wrong turn and ended up hiking up a trail that is typically not visited by tourists. We stayed along the trail and found ourselves above a wadi with a small stream running through it that enables a small jungle to grow about 30 feet on either side of it. We assumed we were in a different wadi than we were and so as a result we decided to climb a gulch to the saddle of the surrounding mountain in hopes of coming up behind the Monastery. After a somewhat treacherous climb we reached the peak and realized that we weren't where we thought we would be, but also saw before us more Nabatean houses, and a Bedouin camp. We made our way down to the camp and as soon as our presence was known we were flocked by 4 Bedouin children all shouting in their accented English, “Where you go? Where you go?” The children and their parents were very surprised to find 6 American tourists come out of that part of the mountain rather than from the main trail and were even more surprised when we spoke to them in Arabic. The man was very good at English and used his short time with us to practice and helped us discover where we were and which directions would take us back towards the Monastery. By this point we realized there was no way we were going to beat all of the tourists so we started to explore the surrounding hills and found some amazing sandstone coloring near the Nabatean buildings. What amazed me most was the fact that I could, from the top of one of the buildings on a small hill, look in every direction and see Nabatean buildings carved out of the rocks as far as I could see in all directions. Every cliff wall and every valley had signs of carvings, of houses, and of the ancient (and sometimes modern) signs of its inhabitants.
In the end I could spend another two or three days in Petra exploring. There is so much to see and although much of it is similar, it is fascinating to explore the ruins, to walk through slot canyons, to climb ancient stair cases carved directly out of the rock, to search through the thousands of shards of pottery, and to hope to come across ancient Roman coins. The experience is not one to be missed if traveling through Jordan and I left wishing I had more time so that I didn't have to try to do it all in two days. Our first day I was in the park walking for 13 hours, with a couple hours of break for lunch. By the end of the evening I was exhausted, thirsty, sunburned, but satisfied by my experiences. Day two resulted in less climbing and more enjoyment of the scenery and although i didn't do everything I wanted it left me with something to look forward to the next time I'm passing through Petra.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Meggido & Armageddon
I just visited the ancient site of Meggido which was historically a dominating force in the region because of its oversight of major trade routes. Today it is a ruinous site that overlooks a fertile agricultural valley. I took the time to sit back under a palm tree and look over the valley and contemplate the religious significance of that site. Traditionally Megiddo and the surrounding valleys are the site of the final battle of Armageddon. As I looked over the valley it occurred to me that most likely there will not be a final military battle in that valley with tens of thousands of troops from multiple armies which will determine the course of history. I realized a few things, battles fought today are not like battles fought historically. Today we use precision bombing and artillery as the primary means with soldiers as the final force. I don't know exactly what the scriptures say concerning Armageddon and Megiddo, I want to go study it now, but I believe that the final battle will probably be more ideological rather than physical. Megiddo was historically important because it was beside the major trade routes from Egypt into Central Asia and Eastern Europe. It was important because it controlled economies and trade. The prophecies very well could be a representation of the idea of what Meggido stood for rather than where it stood. Just a thought.
Thoughts of Jerusalem
I really enjoy Jerusalem. My favorite part has been sitting on the roof of the hotel at nights and being able to see the northern wall of Old Jerusalem and to see the Dome of the Rock glimmering in the background. It is such a beautiful skyline to look at and I find myself perfectly content to sit up here for hours on end. Usually I am exhausted because of everything we do all day, because of all the tours and all the walking, but despite this I still stay up later than I should just to enjoy the nights. I know I will only have a few of these and I want to really take in the city and enjoy the beauty while it is here and while I am here.
Right now I am sitting on the roof listening to the call to prayer ring out across the old city. It is so beautiful. I love sitting here and just taking it all in. I am going to miss hearing the call to prayer in general and I will certainly miss this place in particular. Down below me I can see a line of men who were playing soccer but are now lined up to pray. It is a humbling site to see a group of people stop an activity to pay their religious respect to God. Jerusalem is an amazing place and I have a better understanding of its history and its geopolitical/religious politics now than I did previously and it has changed some of my views and some of my rantings about it.
Right now I am sitting on the roof listening to the call to prayer ring out across the old city. It is so beautiful. I love sitting here and just taking it all in. I am going to miss hearing the call to prayer in general and I will certainly miss this place in particular. Down below me I can see a line of men who were playing soccer but are now lined up to pray. It is a humbling site to see a group of people stop an activity to pay their religious respect to God. Jerusalem is an amazing place and I have a better understanding of its history and its geopolitical/religious politics now than I did previously and it has changed some of my views and some of my rantings about it.
Arab World vs. the Western World a battle of driving skills
I've noticed a big difference in how people approach driving in both Cairo and Amman compared with how it is approached in the states. People always talk about how crazy it is to drive in foreign countries. Especially large metropolitan areas within those countries like Cairo. Through my experience in the various taxis, buses, and the occasional private vehicle I've been in I've realized the biggest difference isn't the style of driving but the approach to driving. In the west, particularly in the states we look at driving like we look at other aspects of life. We ask questions about it, about those who are doing it, about what is happening. We like to know the answer to the why questions. Things like: why is that driving cutting me off, or why are they merging without signaling? We get emotionally involved in our driving and quickly get upset when someone does something we don't understand. It also has to do with our rule-sets and the fact that we are such a rule governing people. You have your lane you drive in and nobody else is to come into it where you are. These two aspects differ greatly from driving in the both Egypt and Jordan. Theirs seems to be a reactionary society. They don't care so much about why someone is doing it, only that it doesn't directly involve them, which means an accident. People will drive in the middle of a lane, across two lanes, or switch between the two (without signaling) and few drivers will blink an eye. Sure a horn or two or three will be blown but mostly it is another means of conveying information. “Hey, I'm here,” or, “coming up your left side.” The horn is constantly being utilized and with good reason and in good form. In many ways a reactionary way of driving is better only because it makes you more aware of what is going on around you, since you have to know because you don't know what to expect. In the states we become complacent because we count on our rule-sets to keep us safe and when others break those rules we then get upset attempting to figure out why. The best thing for us to do is to practice what we call “defensive driving,” which is merely reactionary driving that involves paying attention to the road around us. Wow, what a concept.
On another driving note. I saw my first accident today. It was in a tunnel. The roads were somewhat slick, just because that is how they are here and somehow, a girl manage to turn her car on its side in the middle of the tunnel. We heard the crash and managed to stop before hitting the 4 other cars in front of us only to see the car head rocking back and forth slightly. The next thing that occurred was an amazing sight for me. Dozens of men jumped out of their car and ran up to help, partly to make sure everybody was alright and also to help clear a path so that traffic wouldn't be completely impeded. They put the car back on its wheels and made sure it was only in one lane of traffic instead blocking both, that way the rest of the cars could continue on their way. It was fascinating to see it all happen so quickly because in the states not only would nobody touch anything many people wouldn't even get involved to help, they would just sit in their cars and wait until the police showed up to clear things up, meanwhile getting frustrated by the fact that they are stuck in traffic. Perhaps we should learn a few things about efficiency, and worry less about lawsuits.
On another driving note. I saw my first accident today. It was in a tunnel. The roads were somewhat slick, just because that is how they are here and somehow, a girl manage to turn her car on its side in the middle of the tunnel. We heard the crash and managed to stop before hitting the 4 other cars in front of us only to see the car head rocking back and forth slightly. The next thing that occurred was an amazing sight for me. Dozens of men jumped out of their car and ran up to help, partly to make sure everybody was alright and also to help clear a path so that traffic wouldn't be completely impeded. They put the car back on its wheels and made sure it was only in one lane of traffic instead blocking both, that way the rest of the cars could continue on their way. It was fascinating to see it all happen so quickly because in the states not only would nobody touch anything many people wouldn't even get involved to help, they would just sit in their cars and wait until the police showed up to clear things up, meanwhile getting frustrated by the fact that they are stuck in traffic. Perhaps we should learn a few things about efficiency, and worry less about lawsuits.
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