What is a far-off-place?

I've been back in America for a month now. I don't know if I should continue to write about my experiences and observations now that I'm no longer in a "far-off-place." After all I am just spending another year in Provo studying and working to graduate. I have learned from my summer experience and am trying to get more involved in my weekend life here so that I have more fun and do more exciting things. So far that has worked fairly well for me, a weekend in Bear Lake, an almost weekend to Texas except that Hurricane Ike ruined that for me, and most recently a weekend spent at a cabin in Fremont, somewhere 1.5 hours southeast of Provo. So overall I think I will post the occasional thing that feels fits someway into the topic of my blog, or else maybe I'll just change the topic. For the few of you who actually read it, give me your opinion and that could have a drastic affect on whether or not I continue for the next year.

Until then here's something fun, see how many you can name.

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Created by OnePlusYou

Baptisms in Jordan?

I knew the church had a presence in Jordan but I never thought I would spend the summer witnessing baptism after baptism here. All together I've seen 5 and only one of those was for an 8 year old child of an United States ex-patriot. The rest were all Arab individuals, 3 men who have been attending the branch here in Amman, and one woman from Syria, who had to come to Amman to be baptized. One in particular, Samir, will be a solid member of the church and begin to take more and more leadership roles in the next few years. I admire him greatly for his insight into the gospel, for his dedication, and for the positive influence he has already had on other members of the branch. In particular, I believe the other two men who were baptized reached the point where they wanted to only after seeing Samir take that step and realizing that despite different misgivings they might still have they too could take that leap of faith and be baptized. Seeing all of those has made me so happy and excited about the growth of the gospel here in Jordan, even if it is slow, consists mostly of non-Arabs, and is only one Christian at a time. It's growing.

My favorite was the Syrian lady because it was such a distance she had to travel and she was really nervous about the experience. For her, church had consisted of 4 individuals, herself, the senior missionary couple, and a BYU grad who was studying Arabic in Syria. Coming to Jordan to be baptized was a huge step for her in accepting the gospel but she was concerned about how well she would be accepted, if there would be people there to support her, and if what she was doing would really make a difference. She was surprised to find so many people there, so many of them young Americans, and so many who were excited for her and spoke to her in Arabic. The actual baptism was the best one I had ever seen. In many ways it reminded me of time spent in the Southern United States of America where Evangelicals and other Christians have a sense of excitement about the gospel that exceeds the conservatism of the LDS faith. However, one thing I have realized is when something is excited and needs expressing, even a group of American conservative Mormons will deliver. The minute she came out of the water the entire group of about 50 people who had crowded around the outdoor font in order to get the best view broke into an unadulterated applause reserved for the best music performances. If there could possibly have been an encore to this number one would have been delivered after the applause of the audience but since this was the culminating moment it simply received the praise that it got. I can't really describe the excitement and happiness I felt in the moment when she came up. I knew it was a big step for her but the spontaneous applause made me want to shout for joy and had me thinking of the descending of the Holy Spirit on the people as recorded in the first chapters of Acts. It was a marvelous event and one that will not soon be forgotten amidst my tales of Middle Eastern adventures and experiences.

Hitchhiking

I spent Sunday night and Monday at the Dead Sea enjoying the ultra clean filtered rays of the sun at 400 ft below sea level and the healing properties of a sea filled with far too much salt and other minerals. It was a great end to my summer seeing as the very first weekend I was here in Jordan I went to the Dead Sea, and now on my last weekend as well. It was a fitting end to the summer. As with any trip in that part of the country it is easy to get there because of the bus and taxi situations, but a little more difficult getting back without paying too much money. Our solution is to stand on the side of the highway and hitchhike. My experience with this has been completely positive, not quite what I expect each time, but positive nevertheless. This time we managed a small van with a driver, his son, and another man hauling diapers. They said they were going to Amman and since we were going there too, we climbed in. It turns out that our route to Amman wasn't very direct, but it provided us with some interesting experiences, some great scenery, and one more memory of the people and place that has been my home during the last 3 months.

We started off making a few turns that obviously weren't in the direction of Amman. When I realized this I started paying closer attention just as a precaution but they turned around and talked to us and told us what they were doing. Unfortunately, we don't actually speak Arabic, between the four of us we managed to figure out that they were telling us we had to make a detour before going to Amman. As far as what they actually said, we don't have a clue, but the message was communicated nevertheless, probably mostly by the fact that we weren't on a main road. We ended up in a smaller village and turned down an even smaller and dirtier alley to come to a stop outside a store, at which point we all got out and a few of us helped unload the few bags of diapers that were in the back and then waited for the next step of our journey. A few short conversations and after a bottle of water went around the group we loaded up and were off again. This time we headed up a canyon road to that would eventually bring us into Amman from the North.

Most of this trip was uneventful until our driver suddenly slammed on his breaks and swerved to the right of the road where he sat impatiently for 10 seconds while a half-dozen cars passed us before he put the van in reverse and haphazardly started back down the road we had just come. I looked around trying to figure out what he was doing when I noticed a crate of cucumber looking things sitting out on the side of the road by themselves. Sure, enough our driver jumped out of the car and barely paused to check for traffic as he darted across the road to get the vegetables. Now they were sitting on the ground just waiting and as he picked them up a woman came to the gate of the house, they exchanged a few words but it was obvious that they were extra and just up for grabs. As he returned we had pseudo-cucumbers for everybody, and although they were getting a little too ripe they were quite good. About 30 minutes later we pull over to the side of the road next to a stream. Our three Arab escorts immediately begin washing their hands and faces in the stream and motion for us to do the same. Being the obedient American hitchhikers we were we figured, “hell, why not?” And followed suit. It turns out the stop had another reason equally as valid besides just cooling off the face and head, but they used the stream to fill their water bottles to pour all over the radiator and parts of the engine. Something about being in the middle of a blazing hot desert while driving up a steep winding canyon road required the old van to be cooled off partway through its journey, I can understand that. I found the whole unexpected nature of the stop amusing. The stop, the stream, the washing, and then the cooling off of the car, all during which nobody attempted much conversation, neither them nor us.

In many situations I find that it is just easier to sit back and observe rather than trying to engage in conversation. Likewise, I think they assumed our Arabic wasn't good enough to warrant the effort a conversation would require in attempting to speak words that would be understood by all parties. After our refreshing pit stop, it only took us another 40 minutes and one more stop for some more vegetables, this time at a small roadside stand, before we arrived back in Amman and they dropped us off. We gave them a small amount of money, which they tried to decline, and then we thanked them graciously as we got out of the car.

All together the people in Jordan are more than willing to help out, some more than others, and some for more money than others, but more than willing. My hitchhiking experiences in Jordan have taught me a couple of things. The most important is that people are generally good and very few have ill intentions for you. Sure, they may want something out of the exchange, but since they are providing me with a service I'm more than happy to pay them some money to compensate them for the extra time, gas, and effort that was required to pick me up off the side of a highway in the middle of the desert.

Did I ever wonder if I was completely safe while I was in the car of a complete stranger? Sure, but then I realized that's ridiculous, I get in cars with complete strangers all the time, they are just usually yellow and say “Taxi.” Those experiences aren't always pleasant and they are suppose to be legitimate businesses. Hitchhiking tends to have such a negative connotation associated with it, especially among Americans, and I've realized that it isn't any different from getting in any other type of car, be it a taxi, a bus, or a person willing to pick you up off the side of the road. If you get in enough cars you are bound to have some bad experiences, regardless of whether the drivers are part of a “legitimate” business venture. Hitchhiking just happens to be a way where the interaction is more interesting, and in the end sometimes you end up with a free ride, something you'll almost never get from a taxi, especially along the lonely desert roads. So do I support hitchhiking, absolutely, but it is situational and like any aspect of life when you are about to get into a car with someone you don't know you need to judge the situation and decide if it will be safe whether that be with “public” transportation or “private.”

Comfort and Familiarity

I walked across the University of Jordan campus today and noticed that despite spending more than 3 months here I didn't feel at home, I didn't feel comfortable. I noticed that although I wasn't uncomfortable I didn't feel like I belonged. It was a strange sensation for me because I immediately thought about where exactly it was that I felt I belonged and I thought of a number of places. I feel that I belong in my parents home, at BYU, in Provo, and in Washington D.C. It is strange how places that once felt comfortable no longer do. I noticed this when I went back to D.C. and visited N.D.U. It didn't feel like I belonged there because I no longer did, the same is true when I visit Lone Peak High. However, I still feel that belonging at college. Even though I recognize that I can sit for hours in a class or on campus and not see or talk to anybody I know, I still feel at home amidst all of those strangers. I can't really explain why, part of it is a familiarity, part of it is experience, and other is a personal or emotional connection to the place. While walking across the campus here I realized that although I have friends here, and although I have spent more time than I care to think about studying here I still don't feel a connection. I feel like a transient and this is merely one of thousands of stops on my journey. It is sad in a way. I should have grown comfortable enough to feel like I was leaving part of me behind when I left. However, I am just happy to be going.

There are people and things I will miss. I will miss the excitement and smiles and conversations with my friends at the Language Center, especially with Aliet and Shereen. I will miss lunches at the Sheiks where I could eat pita, hummus, and potatoes to my hearts content at a discounted price because we visited so frequently and became his friends. I am going to miss traveling to and from school on micro buses and with crazy taxi drivers. I am going to really miss the mezzanines call to prayer throughout the day.

Despite these, I am excited to go home and at this point I don't feel that I will miss them enough to really be sad about leaving. I am ready to go home and feel comfortable, to belong, to fit in, and to enjoy familiarity. I don't know how long that will last before my love of the peoples, cultures, and ideas of the world reignites my desire to travel. But I am sure it will happen again. I will be home for awhile and I will remember why I left, why I began studying Arabic and the Middle East in the first place, and once again I will look for the opportunities to leave America and embark on another adventure. That day will come I am sure, but for now I am looking forward to my day of return.

thoughts from a train...Egypt

It's been a beautiful morning. I woke up around 5:30 and got out of bed to watch the countryside roll by. I'm currently on a sleeper train on my way to Luxor in southern Egypt. I spent at least 30 minutes this morning just staring out the window observing the people and their fields and houses as I passed by. I wanted to be able to go talk to them, to talk about their lives, their livelihood, their expectations, their disappointments, and what makes them happy. Most of the people I saw were poor. Most were farming some type of grass or hay and beyond that I'm not sure what they were doing. Men and boys were gathered around fires lit along the roadside, I assume it must be chilly enough to warrant them in the morning, or they were starting something that I don't understand. From my protected perch on the train car it is difficult to really understand what it is like outside, everything passes like a film in front of my eyes. Landscapes are nice but they seem almost surreal and the people, well they are just figures whose lives pass before me in a glimpse. I don't understand them, I don't know what it is like to live like they do. I don't know their hardships, their hopes, their dreams, their aspirations, or if they even have any of these things. Perhaps they are merely trying to survive, but isn't that an aspiration in and of itself? I think so. Are they aware of the vast world which exists outside of their small village? To the contrary, am I really aware of their lives here? I think the answer to both questions is no, not really. We probably both have an idea of the others existence, but beyond that, we are both surviving according to what we know. (1 May 2008)

Al-Haqiqa Al-Dawlia “Fact International”

Al-Haqiqa Al-Dawlia is a bilingual Arabic-English weekly newspaper published here in Jordan, and possibly in other Middle Eastern countries. Unlike the name suggests, “Fact International” provides few facts to its readers. It reads more like a U.S. tabloid newspaper than a professional piece of somewhat objective journalism. Not only is the content of the newspaper on a whole construed but it projects itself as being “alternative analytical media.” What that is suppose to mean is that it is presenting the perspective of the 'other,' when in reality it is only presenting the perspective of the owner. Today our group had a meeting with the owner and the editor-in-chief for the Arabic portion where the owner described the operation and content of the newspaper as superior to other Arab media such as Al-Jazeera, Al-Arabiya, or Al-Dustoor due to the nature of Al-Haqiqa's funding. He informed us that all of these other Arab media were tied to a financial backing, the government, or someone else and these media sources were not completely free to present information that goes against the beliefs of their supporters. What he failed to realize is that by making this argument he only hurt his own case because he indirectly stated that Al-Haqiqa is not backed by a large group of individuals or financiers but by a select few. That puts the paper in a less favorable light because it shows only the ideas of a select few individuals presented as 'fact'.
The meeting was fascinating. It started out as an explanation for the paper's existence, the goals and aims of the paper, and quickly digressed into rantings of his personal political views that went to the extreme and logically did not fit in with his previous claims. For example, at one point he talked about the importance of freedom of speech and the need to have it, but then talks about how freedom of speech can impose itself on others such as the Danish cartoons and that type of speech should be stopped because it is insulting and inflammatory. I found that interesting because many of his articles are insulting and inflammatory but he doesn't recognize it. He even went so far as to quote chapters from an international agreement, chapters 18, 19, and 20 from what he called the International Agreement on Basic Freedoms and Human Rights. I don't even know if that actually exists but if it does his quoting of it and claim that we must adhere to it also hurt his case. Here he claims that someone cannot publish something that is inflammatory or leads to war or strife or anything like it, but then he calls for the “extermination of the state of Israel,” the “uprooting of its people, nicely,” their “not having a place in the Middle East because they are not Arab and it is obvious from looking at them.” So, what I get from this is he wants the western world to restrict its speech because of how he reads an international agreement, but then he ignores another international body, the United Nations, which recognizes the existence of the state of Israel. The logic doesn't hold up.
By the end of the meeting a number of students had gotten fed up with his rantings, where he called George Bush, “a blood thirsty, blood sucker,” and talked about the U.S. military and U.S. values as only being those of rape, pillage, and murder. I'll admit I was frustrated and angry at his rantings, but I didn't see standing up and walking out as a solution that would get us anywhere. I though surely additional dialog would help to present additional viewpoints, point out where we were coming from in comparison to him, etc. Unfortunately, this proved to be unrealistic. Some people's opinions are so set that you can't get them to change, despite their claim to objectivity and need for dialog. I said a few things trying to explain the perspective we were coming from and others did as well. In fact, some presented some very clear explanation of how he was hurting his own cause by publishing such blatantly false stories and making such inflammatory comments as he did to our group. The problem is he just looks at it and said, “I'm sorry if I offended anyone, but those are my views and I have a right to my views and to express them.” Which, he is correct, he does, but it again only hurts him when he then says others don't have a right to express their views on subjects that offend him. He said a lot of things, some made sense, but once he started ranting on all of the things that he was frustrated with and took exceptions, like Abu Ghraib, and presented them as the mainstream ideas of America that is when he lost any credibility and when he lost the ears of a group of American students who otherwise would have been more understanding because of the nature of our program and our studies. He ostracized a key group of individuals because he failed to adhere to his own statements about the need for frank dialog and understanding between east and west. In the end, it turned out to be a comedy show for some, an insult to others, and a confusing look into how a select group of Middle Easterners think. I'm just glad he is not the majority voice being published and the majority voice being accepted, and I hope that continues to be the case. If those with the extremist views ever have their ideas pitched as the mainstream and implemented the world is going to get far more violent and experience far more suffering than we witness today. I hope and pray that day never comes. We need more moderates, we need more people who are willing to listen, who are willing to try to understand, and who are willing to make compromises on what is acceptable. Where are the moderate voices? Why aren't they the focus of discussion instead of the extremists? Without them, we are in a very bad place.

Jordanian Malls

Malls in Jordan are one of the most fascinating places. I would never have thought I would say this, but I really enjoying hanging out at the malls in Amman. I have the opportunity of seeing the entire spectrum of Middle Eastern women and men from the westernized Christians who look like any American from any city or town in America or Europe to the stylish Muslims who wear stylish but modest clothing and a hijab to the fully covered traditional galabiya Muslims. The men typically have a more western style but there are the gulf people who come in for the summer dressed in their white robes and headdresses. It is a fabulous opportunity to just sit and watch people, the way they interact, how they act, and how they dress. If I ever take friends to Jordan I want to take them to the mall on a Thursday night, that is the ideal time because it marks the beginning of the weekend and everybody comes to the mall to hang out. What the mall is to high-school students in America it is to everybody here in Amman. I would never have guessed. As a result of this the malls here are huge. The two largest malls, Mecca Mall and City Mall are within walking distance of each other. Sitting in a Jordanian Mall takes “people watching” up to a whole new level of observing inter-personal interactions and relationships on every level.
Another interesting experience I had tonight happened after we all left the mall. Everybody else had just gotten into cabs and I was waiting for one when I realized I didn't have any Jordanian money on me at all. Naturally, I had to go back into the mall to find an ATM and after withdrawing money had to go buy something to break my smallest bill, a twenty, into something cap drivers would handle. I went to the Donuts Factory and after ordering sat down to eat my donut before leaving for the evening. While I was consuming my donut a young lady walked in dressed head to toe in the traditional shirsha and naqaab, which is the long gown and the hijab with a veil over the face. I didn't think much of it because I see hundreds of women every day who are dressed similar. What caught me off guard was her conversation with the donut man behind the counter. At first I wasn't sure I heard correctly because it was pretty loud but it sounded as if she was talking to him in English. Since I was at the mall it isn't too uncommon for the workers and the customers to speak English, it is a status symbol being able to spend money there on westernized items and do so in English. However, as I listened closer I realized that not only was she speaking English to him, she was speaking English with a very western accent. It was not expected, in some ways I feel like the Arabs who are surprised when I address them in Arabic. I've thought about why this young girl who is dressed the way she is would be speaking Western English instead of Arabic and I can't come to any certain conclusions. It is possible that she was raised in the West and is just here temporarily but that doesn't explain why she isn't speaking Arabic, unless she doesn't actually speak Arabic, then that raises a whole new series of questions about who she is here with, why she is here, and why is she not with someone who speaks the language, and why is she dressed this way? If only there was a girl there with me who could have approached her to ask those types of questions. I would have been very interested in knowing the answers because everything I come up with is purely speculation and I don't have nearly the background nor the expertise to really come to any conclusive answers.

Petra - A World Wonder

This last weekend I spent two days in Petra, one of the 7 wonders of the world (the list of New 7 Wonders). The selection of Petra as one of the wonders is well deserved. The place is beautiful. Petra consists of a series of desert canyons, valleys, and mountains that once contained the ancient Nabatean civilization. As far as canyons, valleys, and desert mountains go, Petra isn't very different from many parts of Southern Utah or Northern Arizona, that is until you take in all of the buildings, temples, houses, tombs, and the ancient water collecting and distribution systems and realize everything is carved into and out of rock. The tombs and houses are not just practical in their designs but they are intricately carved, especially the Treasury and the Monastery. These people took pride in their work and wanted to make their city beautiful and because everything is made from rock all of the structures remain. I was amazed by the size of many of the rooms, the heights of the external facade, and the realization that all of this was done without power-tools, without cranes, without modern advances and yet these people not only survived in the desert, but they thrived in the desert in physical sustenance, trade, and culture. I am still blown away by the beauty of the place. I climbed up many rocks and tombs to examine the simplicity and the complexity of the various buildings that remain. I still sit in amazement as I think of what I saw and observed here. It is incredible.
During the first day I managed to spend time in all 4 corners of Petra, as shown in the guidebooks, and spent most of that time outside of the major tourist attractions. I like seeing the main attractions but I love getting out and seeing what else exists outside of the center. We found beautiful caves and houses, Bedouin who still utilize the Nabatean buildings in their lives, vast landscapes, steep ravines, goat herds, and the preciousness of water and how plants thrive in the desert with even the slightest source. Initially we wanted to get up to the Monastery before the crowds, since we arrived at 6:30 am. Unfortunately, we took a wrong turn and ended up hiking up a trail that is typically not visited by tourists. We stayed along the trail and found ourselves above a wadi with a small stream running through it that enables a small jungle to grow about 30 feet on either side of it. We assumed we were in a different wadi than we were and so as a result we decided to climb a gulch to the saddle of the surrounding mountain in hopes of coming up behind the Monastery. After a somewhat treacherous climb we reached the peak and realized that we weren't where we thought we would be, but also saw before us more Nabatean houses, and a Bedouin camp. We made our way down to the camp and as soon as our presence was known we were flocked by 4 Bedouin children all shouting in their accented English, “Where you go? Where you go?” The children and their parents were very surprised to find 6 American tourists come out of that part of the mountain rather than from the main trail and were even more surprised when we spoke to them in Arabic. The man was very good at English and used his short time with us to practice and helped us discover where we were and which directions would take us back towards the Monastery. By this point we realized there was no way we were going to beat all of the tourists so we started to explore the surrounding hills and found some amazing sandstone coloring near the Nabatean buildings. What amazed me most was the fact that I could, from the top of one of the buildings on a small hill, look in every direction and see Nabatean buildings carved out of the rocks as far as I could see in all directions. Every cliff wall and every valley had signs of carvings, of houses, and of the ancient (and sometimes modern) signs of its inhabitants.
In the end I could spend another two or three days in Petra exploring. There is so much to see and although much of it is similar, it is fascinating to explore the ruins, to walk through slot canyons, to climb ancient stair cases carved directly out of the rock, to search through the thousands of shards of pottery, and to hope to come across ancient Roman coins. The experience is not one to be missed if traveling through Jordan and I left wishing I had more time so that I didn't have to try to do it all in two days. Our first day I was in the park walking for 13 hours, with a couple hours of break for lunch. By the end of the evening I was exhausted, thirsty, sunburned, but satisfied by my experiences. Day two resulted in less climbing and more enjoyment of the scenery and although i didn't do everything I wanted it left me with something to look forward to the next time I'm passing through Petra.

Meggido & Armageddon

I just visited the ancient site of Meggido which was historically a dominating force in the region because of its oversight of major trade routes. Today it is a ruinous site that overlooks a fertile agricultural valley. I took the time to sit back under a palm tree and look over the valley and contemplate the religious significance of that site. Traditionally Megiddo and the surrounding valleys are the site of the final battle of Armageddon. As I looked over the valley it occurred to me that most likely there will not be a final military battle in that valley with tens of thousands of troops from multiple armies which will determine the course of history. I realized a few things, battles fought today are not like battles fought historically. Today we use precision bombing and artillery as the primary means with soldiers as the final force. I don't know exactly what the scriptures say concerning Armageddon and Megiddo, I want to go study it now, but I believe that the final battle will probably be more ideological rather than physical. Megiddo was historically important because it was beside the major trade routes from Egypt into Central Asia and Eastern Europe. It was important because it controlled economies and trade. The prophecies very well could be a representation of the idea of what Meggido stood for rather than where it stood. Just a thought.

Thoughts of Jerusalem

I really enjoy Jerusalem. My favorite part has been sitting on the roof of the hotel at nights and being able to see the northern wall of Old Jerusalem and to see the Dome of the Rock glimmering in the background. It is such a beautiful skyline to look at and I find myself perfectly content to sit up here for hours on end. Usually I am exhausted because of everything we do all day, because of all the tours and all the walking, but despite this I still stay up later than I should just to enjoy the nights. I know I will only have a few of these and I want to really take in the city and enjoy the beauty while it is here and while I am here.
Right now I am sitting on the roof listening to the call to prayer ring out across the old city. It is so beautiful. I love sitting here and just taking it all in. I am going to miss hearing the call to prayer in general and I will certainly miss this place in particular. Down below me I can see a line of men who were playing soccer but are now lined up to pray. It is a humbling site to see a group of people stop an activity to pay their religious respect to God. Jerusalem is an amazing place and I have a better understanding of its history and its geopolitical/religious politics now than I did previously and it has changed some of my views and some of my rantings about it.

Arab World vs. the Western World a battle of driving skills

I've noticed a big difference in how people approach driving in both Cairo and Amman compared with how it is approached in the states. People always talk about how crazy it is to drive in foreign countries. Especially large metropolitan areas within those countries like Cairo. Through my experience in the various taxis, buses, and the occasional private vehicle I've been in I've realized the biggest difference isn't the style of driving but the approach to driving. In the west, particularly in the states we look at driving like we look at other aspects of life. We ask questions about it, about those who are doing it, about what is happening. We like to know the answer to the why questions. Things like: why is that driving cutting me off, or why are they merging without signaling? We get emotionally involved in our driving and quickly get upset when someone does something we don't understand. It also has to do with our rule-sets and the fact that we are such a rule governing people. You have your lane you drive in and nobody else is to come into it where you are. These two aspects differ greatly from driving in the both Egypt and Jordan. Theirs seems to be a reactionary society. They don't care so much about why someone is doing it, only that it doesn't directly involve them, which means an accident. People will drive in the middle of a lane, across two lanes, or switch between the two (without signaling) and few drivers will blink an eye. Sure a horn or two or three will be blown but mostly it is another means of conveying information. “Hey, I'm here,” or, “coming up your left side.” The horn is constantly being utilized and with good reason and in good form. In many ways a reactionary way of driving is better only because it makes you more aware of what is going on around you, since you have to know because you don't know what to expect. In the states we become complacent because we count on our rule-sets to keep us safe and when others break those rules we then get upset attempting to figure out why. The best thing for us to do is to practice what we call “defensive driving,” which is merely reactionary driving that involves paying attention to the road around us. Wow, what a concept.
On another driving note. I saw my first accident today. It was in a tunnel. The roads were somewhat slick, just because that is how they are here and somehow, a girl manage to turn her car on its side in the middle of the tunnel. We heard the crash and managed to stop before hitting the 4 other cars in front of us only to see the car head rocking back and forth slightly. The next thing that occurred was an amazing sight for me. Dozens of men jumped out of their car and ran up to help, partly to make sure everybody was alright and also to help clear a path so that traffic wouldn't be completely impeded. They put the car back on its wheels and made sure it was only in one lane of traffic instead blocking both, that way the rest of the cars could continue on their way. It was fascinating to see it all happen so quickly because in the states not only would nobody touch anything many people wouldn't even get involved to help, they would just sit in their cars and wait until the police showed up to clear things up, meanwhile getting frustrated by the fact that they are stuck in traffic. Perhaps we should learn a few things about efficiency, and worry less about lawsuits.

The Cairainian Zoo

This is unlike any zoo I've ever been to for a number of reasons, first I was never sure what the show was ourselves or the animals, and second I know of no other place where you can bribe the zoo keepers to take you into the back to pet and take pictures holding the animals (I have a picture with a 7 month old Lion to prove it). There was a group of 8 of us who all went to the zoo. It was fascinating watching how certain girls in our group attracted attention from the Arab patrons there, mostly it was little kids and a few adults, but it was such a great 'people watching' experience. Some of the Arab women would take their youngest children and stick them in the girls arms, for some type of approval or something, and they would all smile and laugh and talk in mixed Arabic and English. Meanwhile, all the other children are crowding around, laughing, running around each other and asking that we take their picture, at which point they demand to see it and then shout for joy and run off happily, that is they finally ran off after we told them no more pictures, which was usually and the 5th or 6th one. It was a lot of fun for me, but mostly because I got to watch these interactions between our group and those we met.

There is another aspect of the zoo which isn't so positive. Because the zoo “allows” you to get very close to the animals, to feed them, to touch them, to take pictures with them (discreetly), it is actually not a very good place for the animals. I don't think they are treated very well at all. One elephant I saw was standing next to the keeper and all of the people were feeding him lettuce leaves. Initially I thought nothing of it until I realized that he was chained there in such a way that even if he wanted to back away he was unable to do so. I'm sure the lion that we got to pet and take pictures with was either abused into submission so that it was use to that type of treatment or it was drugged. All I know is it was a mixed experience for me as far as the animals go because of my new experiences, but these were at the expense of many of the animals.

Umm Qais & Border Guards

Umm Qais is located in the far north of Jordan near the city Irbid and right near the border between Israel, Jordan, and Syria; specifically, next to the Golan Heights. It is an ancient Roman city and contains the remains of Roman Theaters and the old Road to Tiberias, an ancient stone road that ran for thousands of kilometers. The ruins also contained an old Ottoman village that aren't as old but still have some fascinating aspects to them. What I liked about Umm Qais the most was many parts of it are don't attract a lot of visitors, only the main sites, so we were able to walk among the old Ottoman village amidst dozens of weeds and growth which made it seem more ancient and more obscure. Plus there is always the added factor that there weren't many people around, tourists or workers so we were able to go all over the place, climbing things when we wanted to, walking through houses, standing and overlooking the Golan and climbing through the old Roman Theaters.
At one point we walked over to the edge of Umm Qais to get a better look at the valley and we saw a couple of Jordanian soldiers camped out near the edge of the hill with their weapons, binoculars, and a military field phone. We walked up and started talking to them and they were really friendly, mostly I think they were surprised by how much Arabic we knew and how much we could talk and understand. Unfortunately it wasn't as much as I would have liked. We talked about a number of different subjects but when one of the soldiers just went off about relationships and marriage I got lost despite the fact that we have spent almost all of the last two weeks in my Jordanian Amiya Culture class talking about marriage. I managed to keep abreast of the conversation enough to grasp the general ideas, or at least what I thought they were but my ability to really understand is severely limited. I know that it is better now than where it was a month ago, and certainly better than where it was a year ago, but some days it doesn't feel like I am really picking up the language even though I know it is just slow process that takes time and consistency. I asked the soldiers a couple of questions about what they were doing there and what they were looking for but if they answered the question I didn't understand it so I might as well not have asked, but then again at least I tried and was able to hear more Arabic.

Wadi Mukheiris

Today we spent about 7 hours under the sun hiking Wadi Mukheiris. From the information I had from a guidebook I thought it was suppose to be like Wadi Mujib with wide streams and a number of waterfalls but it looks like they have been pumping a lot of water out for use by the hotels down near the Dead Sea. There was only a small stream for most of the way up but after about 2 hours we did manage to climb far enough up the river to find a large 20 meter waterfall streaming down. The valley we were hiking through was gorgeous in its own way. It isn't beautiful like you think of a Caribbean beach or the Swiss Alps but it has its own amazing beauty that I love. After spending 30 minutes at the waterfall we were able to backtrack and find a goat path that led up the mountain and around the falls. After another hour of hiking we found some stalactites and another small falls that were simply picturesque. By the end I was exhausted from the hike but also from the 7 hours spent under the sun. It was a lot of fun but tiring. Half of our adventures each week are getting to and from our destination. The ride there was pretty simple we all showed up at the bus stop and I was able to talk a driver into taking us directly there for 3 JD each, which was a little more expensive than if we had just done the various buses but it got us there quickly so we could start hiking. For the ride back we stood on the side of the road waiting for someone to stop, which didn't take long, about 10 minutes, and we were off toward a city with buses that run back to Amman. The total trip back to the Amman bus station was only 1.75 per person, so all in all it was a great day and another great adventure in Jordan.

Wadi Mujib

Wadi Mujib is a wildlife preservation that consists of canyon lands and rivers. Yesterday I hiked one trail within the Wadi that was incredible. The entire trail consists of hiking up a slot canyon with a river running out of it. Where the trail starts the river is wide and shallow with canyons rising on both sides. As you proceed upriver the canyon narrows into a slot canyon that tower above. Most of the trail is in the shade with the sun breaking through in narrow moments piercing small portions of the river. At various points the water increases in depth up to 4-5 feet and you have to climb over a series of waterfalls until you reach the end of the trail where a 50 foot waterfall is cascading in a sunlit pool. I was able to climb behind the waterfall and dive through it being pushed along with the current. It was incredible to feel the power of the water coming down. The central point where the fall hits is powerful enough that you can't stand directly under it. Those who attempted to walk through were knocked off their feet and pushed out by the rushing water. I enjoyed diving through and letting all of the water continue to push me along the canyon wall downstream a dozen feet. On the way down the group lined up to jump off the falls and slide down the natural rock slides into various pools. We discovered that we could jump in certain areas where the water was deep enough. The deepest we found was only 6 feet deep, but sufficient for the heights from which we were jumping.
At the biggest of the small falls there are two natural slides and a place where you can jump into the pool below the fall. I started a trend I probably shouldn't have by jumping over the rushing water taking a step or two on the opposing wall and pushing off again landing right in the middle of the pool. After that there were others who did it as well. The problem with how we did it is there were some people who weren't as confident in the jump or in their abilities, also there were those who didn't have good shoes and when they tried it they slipped on the wet rock and came off wrong. Luckily they all made it to the pool below, but there were some close calls where people almost hit there heads on rocks as they slipped on the rock when they jumped and almost miss the landing all together. In the end, Mujib was a paradise in the desert which left me feeling tired, but refreshed after our adventure.

Taxi Drivers and Undercover Cops

Taxi drivers in Jordan are suppose to abide by the law, most of the time they, do but there are other times they try to take advantage of foreigners. All regular taxis are suppose to have a working meter to be legal. At night you sometimes get drivers who want to charge you ridiculous amounts of money to take you places and they claim their meter isn't working or that it is broken. Both of those things are illegal but most of the time you can't do much or they don't think you can. Last night Joey, Brieanne, and I were coming back from Umm Qais and tried to catch a cab from the bus station to Shmeisani, which is an area close by and should have coast about a dinar. As I got in I asked him to reset the meter and he promptly told me no that it would cost us 4 JD if we wanted to go. I looked at him and told him that he was crazy, got out, and started walking away. At that moment I wished my Arabic was good enough that I could let into the driver about how he was trying to rip me off because I am American and how I know that what he was trying to do was illegal. Unfortunately, I'm not quite at that point so I just walked off to find another taxi. I made it about 20 feet from the taxi when someone shouted at me and I turned around to see a guy walking directly towards us. I stopped to see what he had to say, because Arabs have an amazing ability to observe interactions and then step in to help, or at least to offer their services at a reduced price. The guy that came up to me was dressed like any other Jordanian youth and looked about 20 but as he asked me what happened he pulled out a police badge to show me. I was quite excited since I was just hoping for some justice and couldn't get it from yelling at him in Arabic. I told the cop what happened, how the driver wanted 4 JD for Shmeisani and claimed his meter didn't work. The cop made him get out of the car and then proceeded to write up the ticket on the spot. It was a little tense because the driver started to argue it, but the cop again turned to us and asked us what happened and I told him again and Joey and Brieanne backed me up and that was it, our word was final and the driver got a ticket. Another cop then flagged a taxi down for us and we were on our way. Sometimes justice does occur, even if only for a moment. About 30 minutes later I was taking another cap and the driver tried to rip me off again....if only there was always an observant undercover cop around to fight the flagrant violations of late night taxi drivers.

Citizens Lives – Everyday Interactions

My favorite part of being in Cairo has been interacting with the locals and watching them interact with each other. It is so fascinating to see how people live, how they talk to each other, their verbal and non-verbal languages, the social and cultural courtesies and everything else the results from human interaction. Some of my favorite experiences are the ones that are least desirable, but they are part of life and I liked see each in its environment.
Orphan Boy: The first I saw while in the Khan al-Khalili the other night around 9 o'clock. I was walking up the stairs of an overpass that crossed a very busy 4 lane road where traffic actually sped by. Along the overpass were a number of street vendors selling their various scarves, clothing, and tourist trinkets. As I walked by I noticed a young boy probably only 8 or 9 scamper by as he looked back. About that same time one of the vendors reached out and grabbed him by the shirt and started yelling at him. The boy looked at him and in a very defiant voice, that comes from having to experience more of life's realities and cruelties than one should at that age, told the man off. The man continued shouting at him and then backhanded the boy. I was surprised by it all because I had yet to see anybody get physically violent. I know it happens but most of the arguments I have seen were restricted to a lot of yelling and cursing but very little physical interaction. It must have hurt bad, I thought so based on the boys age, the mans age, the sound it made when he was hit, and the immediate change in the boys tone. It went from the overly confident, adamantly defiant tone of a teenager to that of a helpless child. He whimpered and spoke some more and by this time I was out of earshot and had started down the other side. It had barely reached the bottom of the other side of the overpass when I noticed the boy run past in a hurry to get far away from the situation. I don't know exactly what happened but from what I observed and the little I understood I think the boy attempted to steal from the vendor but was caught. Because he hadn't actually stolen anything the boy didn't think there was a problem, so he responded defiantly and the vendor decided to punish him for his attempt both physically and verbally. Imagining the things I went through as a kid when I got into trouble I can't really image how that boy must have felt except scared and wanting to get as far away from that place as possible and hopefully to a place much safer. Sadly enough I don't know if the boy even has a safe place to go. Perhaps he might have a physical place where he can be safe, perhaps not, but either way if he doesn't have the ability to secure the necessities of life then no place is secure for long, and no physical shelter is enough when there isn't food or water available. It is amazing how the importance to which you place on something drastically changes when your circumstances change, or when your perspective changes.

A new beginning....

I've decided to graduate my thoughts and adventure writings from the world of Facebook notes and photo albums to a personal blog. I don't know if this will mean more or fewer people read what I have to say, but it seems like a more appropriate outlet. So this is my new beginning.